Radio Equipment |
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Last update, December 14, 2007
The Remote Controls
Futaba T6EX-2.4GHz Overview - See Radio Systems in Recommendations
Parts: Futaba was used here - Servo City, TX and RX only ordered RMG winch Mods: Battery compartment and wiring. Jib trim rotary knob installed and the antenna moved into the TX case.
At this point you have completed a the Board Assembly page and the wiring is complete. Here it is again...don't forget the red wire from the RMG winch.
The Radio There is nothing to do yet. It is shipped Mode 2 for US, which is the standard aircraft configuration you see in the manual servo wiring arrangement. You might like to look over the overview in the link above. The modifications are at the bottom of the page and should be done before you enter the Sheetline page of the System Board section.
Enter programming for the following default settings for us boat captains: D/R is 100% for channels 1 and 4. EXPO (part of dual rate) is 0% for channels 1 and 4. EPA is 100% for channels 1, 3 and 4. Trim is 0 for channels 1, 3 and 4. Don't care where REV is now. We are likely to change some in a bit.
The RX It is small, light and feels fragile. The rudder servo goes to #1 slot, winch to 3 and the jib trim to 4.
The Winch The winch used is the RMG 280DL with the latest in company programming and is SS radio compatible. The signals from the winch are different tone but the use process. It has more beeps that it used to. Read the manual...it is really clear.
There is no programming and calibration anymore. The things that you can change have increased but the factory shipped default settings are just fine. There is battery voltage monitoring now instead of battery limiter programming. The winch will produce three rising tones when the power switch is turned on and the voltage is below 5.5 vdc. The winch has six revolutions now and the gearing and smoothness is much improved and with good movement resolution to match the 500 step motor that has been in it for some time.
The 32Z6 drum, however, is not matched to the EC12 sheeting requirement. But it is the best available. This being said is that with the winch line attached and in the full sheet out position (no wraps) and the winch is then turned toward close haul, the rotation limit stops before the line reaches even near the small diameter of the spiral axis. It is the small diameter of the axis that good captains of the EC12 revel in. So, we will have to make compensation for this in the Sheetline page of the System Board section. But for now lets power up this puppy and check it out.
Take the drum off the winch. Turn on the TX and then the power switch on the board. You should hear a lilting sound and the RX light will come on green. If you hear anything else, or nothing at all, you screwed up the wiring or the winch is not plugged in. Eh-eh-eh, there is nothing wrong with the TX or the winch.
Exercise the winch and then to what will be full sheet out. This is stick up for most. Now ease the stick down to see the direction of rotation. Out of the box this one was clockwise. At Delta we want counter-clockwise for two reasons; better feed on the grooves of the drum and we want the line entry/exit from the drum on the bottom. This provides the best entry at the lower spindle on the turning block. Reverse the #3 channel setting in the TX.
There has not been a lot to do here but if it came out well you are in good shape. If you are following the EC return to the Sheetline page and continue.
The Battery Compartment: Futaba has finally placed the battery plug-in where you can see it and it is removable. However, the opening is the size of a dime and you next small pliers to deal with it. Not good!
Remover the case and use a Dremel to enlarge the area like you see here. Place a short servo extension into the radio board that will connect to the battery.
They have also not dealt with the thickness of some shrink wrap. Work this out but be careful not to break the tabs on the battery compartment door.
Jib Trim The toughest issue is jib trim. Some will install a knob to a pot and others will make the change to using one of the two stick functions we do not generally use. Here the latter will be done to the elevator function (vertical function of the right stick). This has an unused ratchet surfaced form where a wiper can be installed. Remove the tension spring from the gimbal. This would give the vertical motion feel and stability. The elevator and wiper is shown on the left. The Knob Mod Parts and Tools: 5k Potentiometer - 15mm or 5/8" diameter to fit in location shown here. 26 gauge wire Soldering stuff including a de-solder vacuum - Radio Shack Knob is from Radio Shack
The gear retract switch was removed and stored in the case. This location for the knob is the same as used on the old Futaba 6XAS and easy access for the left fore finger. The 5k pot shown here is Futaba salvage parts from the shop bin. It has a small circuit board connection point whereas, a store bought one will have solder pins. Black/red/white ribbon wire was used. Colors do not matter, as long as you attach to the pot points in the same order in both locations.
The left stick horizontal function (airplane rudder) was chosen and the wire solder points are the three pins to the right of the red wire on the circuit board below the gimbal. This is tight soldering so be careful that one does not touch the other pin. When all is soldered route the wire and pot to the hole. You may need to drill out the hole to fit. The stick gimbal was locked into place by the mod you see above. This was to prevent inadvertent trim movement when the winch stick was moved for the winch. Bracing is needed and close tolerance is suggested. You'll figure it out. The Antenna The Spread Spectrum radios have flimsy folded antennas that can pop off the mount when bumped. No big deal but it takes 5 minutes to get it back on. This is not good when in a race and the antenna wire is working side to side as you jostle along. Some Swedes thought of the obvious...get rid of it...and stored it inside the case of the Spektrum DX6 transmitter. The boys in South Florida tested it locally then in large fleet regattas and found no change in signal strength or response. Here is the modification to the Futaba 6EX and 10 minutes later I was out of the shop.
Obviously, the caution is not to damage anything, as antennas and the lead wire are fragile. Open the cast and lift the antenna wire plug off the RF board with a razor knife. It is a press fit and swivels and seen here to the right of the green light with a gray wire. The antenna mount to the case is one of those damn multiple press tabs that go on well but a &%#$ to get off with one hand. Once it is released you can lift the antenna off the case with the wire trailing. Pull the rubber grommet out of the mount and carefully push the swivel connector through to free the wire. I suggest you not pull it through. Now the mount can be passed from the wire. Press the plastic tabs on the mount to release the pins that allow it to swivel. This is not fun...where do they find these designers? Once you have the mount off the antenna you are home free. Lift the RF board and place the antenna across the case above the case screw mounts with the base toward the pot installed for the jib trim. Press the antenna wire connector back onto the RF board from where it came.
Reinstall the cast and you are outta here. Love it!
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