Rick West
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Last update, February 4, 2010

Small Boat Pivoting Stand

 

 

A search of the Internet and model boating forums could not locate a ground staked pivoting small boat stand suitable for the IOM. These stands can are occasionally seen at regattas in various forms. They are designed so the boat can be worked on at waist height. Some pivot horizontally in the wind and others add roll to tilt the rigged boat. None were found but a single photo was sent to me from Frank Vella of the Detroit group that gave excellent clues to a design. The stand shown here is designed to pivot into the wind and heel to wind pressure and may be the only such appliance documented. The part you will hate is this shop builds and measures in Metric where it can.

 

The parts cost was $35 in 2010 and assembled in very little time. Considering the value of the boat, PVC material construction thoughts were discarded.

 

Parts:

8 feet of ˝” copper pipe

5 Tees

2 – 90 degree angles

˝” pipe wrap

Velcro

One ground staked potted plant holder

 

Tools:

Hack saw

Bench grinder or drill attachment

Pipe cutter

Buffer

Solder and flux

Flux brush

Propane torch

Stand

There are a lot of plant holders out there. One was chosen that had a hefty 12mm rod shaft and the pipe would fit nicely over it without much slop. This was cut 3 feet above the stake bar and the copper pipe 1” longer to fit over the rod. The part that goes into the ground is about 10”. Any height you would like can be measured. Bear in mind the section that will be in the ground.

 

Pipe Parts

The two pieces that will hold the boat can be any length you like. Shown here are 305mm long and will not be permanently soldered to the pivot rack until the stand is tested with boat for an IOM.

 

Assembly

The rack is just a device to allow the stand to pivot on two axis.

Cut four pipe pieces 28-30mm long. These are for the fore and aft tees.

Cut two pieces 42mm long. These are for the center that will mount to the roll tee that mounts to the stand pipe.

Cut the two outer pieces 101mm long.

 

Clean any burrs, buff for looks and then dry fit the rack like shown here.

 

While you are doing this begin thinking about a procedural process you will follow to solder these pieces into a permanent rack. Bear in mind the center tee and its spacer pipes will not be soldered to the mounting tee or the fore and aft tees. There will be a little slop for the center tee to slide about 4mm and that is good. Part the thought process will be to keep the rack flat and on the same plane yet provide space to move the torch around.

 

 

Put the unsoldered rack on the stand and admire your work. Mentally, it presents the next phase. If you are not familiar with soldering copper pipe there are some excellent oral and animated instruction by Googling “soldering copper pipe.” Easy2 is a nice presentation. The prime learning is that the pipe and fittings need to be very hot for the capillary action to work and the parts need to be cleaned and roughed before you start. Practice on some pipe and fittings. They are cheap.

 

Solder the rack together remembering to leave the center tee section free to roll.

 

Solder the rack to the standpipe. Test the boat on the stand till you are comfortable with the length of the extension pieces with some pipe wrap to protect the boat hull. Solder them in.

 

 

Add the pipe wrap to the extensions and the rack. Nylon ties were used to hold the extensions in place. You can use a Velcro strap or a lanyard ties to the extensions aft of the fin for security.

 

The boat will rest in the extensions with a stern down trim. This comes with bend in the vertical stand rod and some movement of the extensions. It is inconsequential to the project while it offends the senses. Nonetheless, it will be worked on when it goes to the lake. There is no level ground at our house.

 

Enjoy...